I first encountered energy balls in an innocuous corner by the till of a health food store — touted as trail mix, but more convenient. I then balked at the price and went for some peanuts instead.

Five years later and now questionably-appearing lumps nestle alongside Snickers in the corner stand, the supermarket and — God forbid — the frozen yoghurt shop. They’re an amalgamation of all the things we’ve come to associate with ‘wellness,’ like cacao (pretentious cocoa powder), dates, nut butters and coconut oil, making them pricier compared to your run-of-the-mill nibble, but supposedly a healthier nibble.

The countless brands, variations and recipes all share commonalities. With snack foods, sugar and oil serve as bulkers which improve taste. Energy balls are no exception — ones which use dates as a base, like Deliciously Ella and Good4u, are over 30% sugar and half your RDA. They’re also pretty low in fibre and nutrients, other than fats and added protein. So despite the smiles from Roz and her ilk, you’re really eating a marginally less sweet Snickers bar for the same price that you can pick up a banana and some crackers with peanut butter. (Though, to be fair, they don’t do well in a coat pocket.)