Shaku Maku review Palestinian restaurant brings flavours of the Middle East to Rathmines

Originally published in print February 2024.

 

Shaku Maku: the Iraqi Arabic way of saying “What’s the craic?” and the name of one of the newest Middle Eastern restaurants to grace the streets of Dublin. Situated in the heart of Rathmines, Shaku Maku opened its doors early last year and has since firmly established its place on the city’s culinary map. The diner is one of a series of successful businesses owned by Adnan Shabab, a Palestinian man who moved to Ireland with a dream over two decades ago. 

 

Speaking to a member of the team about the inspiration behind the restaurant, I was told that Shaku Maku was created as a celebration of Middle Eastern hospitality: “Anyone who has dined with Arabs knows that hospitality is ingrained in our culture.” Wanting to have this experience, I went to check the place out for myself at the weekend. 

 

Walking down Rathmines Road with dining partner in tow, stomachs rumbling, we were soon met with the restaurant’s eye-catching new mural, created by artist and political activist Emmalene Blake. The mural portrays a black and white image of a smiling child wearing a keffiyeh (traditional patterned head garment) contrasting with the vibrant Palestinian flag in the background. It had been freshly painted the day before, in honour of the thousands of children who have lost their lives in the continuing bombardment of Gaza. After stopping to admire the art, we stepped into the warm interior of the restaurant, already bustling with customers. 

 

Upon entering Shaku Maku, you’re immediately greeted by its unique decor. Colourful vintage posters with Arabic calligraphy adorn the restaurant’s walls, depicting iconic Middle Eastern cultural figures such as singers Asmahan and Umm Kalthoum. We were lucky enough to get a front row seat to the action, in full view of the restaurant’s open kitchen.

 

We were truly spoiled for choice with the menu, which is entirely Halal and also offers good vegetarian and gluten-free options. For starters we ordered some hummus and lamb kibbeh, recommended to us by our Lebanese flatmate (shoutout Mohamed). The hummus was silky smooth and the lamb kibbeh, stuffed with a flavourful blend of spices, onions, walnuts and minced lamb, was delicious paired with its accompanying mint yoghurt dip.

 

For mains, I went for the beef moussaka, whilst my friend opted for the Lebanese grilled chicken. Served in a griddle pan, the beef moussaka was a super-filling melange of minced beef, aubergines, and potatoes in a rich tomato sauce – all topped with a generous coating of bechamel sauce and cheese. I tasted the other main course as well, and let me tell you I have never had chicken thighs so tender. The succulent grilled meat had been marinated in lemon, garlic, rosemary and other herbs.  

 

At this point we were already stuffed but we couldn’t leave without trying some of the authentic Middle Eastern desserts on offer. I ordered a mint tea and knafeh, which consists of a warm gooey cheese filling sweetened with rose water syrup, encased in a golden sugary string pastry known as kataifi, and topped with chopped pistachios. My companion went for the Lebanese rice pudding, similarly infused with rose water, vanilla and topped with pistachios. 

 

Overall, the dining experience in Shaku Maku was unlike any other we’ve had in Dublin. The food was so delicious; we couldn’t stop ourselves from clearing our plates despite the generous portions. The staff were friendly and I even spotted the owner, Adnan, recommending some desserts to some other newcomers at the table next to ours. A unique feature of Shaku Maku is the Shisha lounge which can be found tucked further into the restaurant. This is a place where guests can unwind after eating, enjoy some drinks from the bar and smoke Shisha, which is offered in “a wide array of flavours”.

 

Shaku Maku recently organised a “Plates for Palestine” event on October 26, feeding and entertaining the masses in aid of Palestine Red Crescent who are currently working to provide food, shelter and urgent medical aid to those in need in Gaza. They raised €7,400 in proceeds. “The mainstream media has attempted to dehumanise the people of Palestine. You’ll often hear rhetoric like referring to the west as ‘the civilised world’ as if we are somehow less civilised. Our culture is as old as time. This event was to remind people of our rich heritage and culture”, explains the restaurant’s representative, adding that “we’re so grateful to the Irish people for their support.”

For people interested in learning more about Palestinian food, culture, and history, the staff at Shaku Maku have three book recommendations: 

‘Palestine on a Plate: Memories from My Mother’s Kitchen’ by Joudie Kalla 

‘The Question of Palestine’ by Edward Said

‘The Ethnic Cleansing of Palestine’ by Israeli historian Ilan Pappé.

(lamb kibbeh and hummus)

(beef moussaka and Lebanese grilled chicken)

(knafeh)

WORDS:  Ella Sloane

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