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The Woollen Mills has taken Irish food, stripped it of its worn out stereotypes, and made it chic. Upon our arrival the sash windows of the newly refurbished Dublin Woollen Mills were filled with people sitting in front of the exposed kitchen that runs the length of the ground floor. Having made a reservation a day in advance, my partner and I were lead up a sanded wooden staircase — feeling as though we were at the cool kid’s house party — to a rooftop terrace that looks over the River Liffey. Flashes of orange on the napkins, the candle-holders and lamps offset the muted black, grey and cream colour scheme, creating a subtle urban vibe. My only beef with the set-up would be the low backed metal chairs: practical for outdoors, but not all that comfortable. Having said that, we still managed to stay happily for two hours.
Their drinks menu opens by pointing out they are not “mixologists”, and the ingredients really do speak for themselves
The simplicity of the décor continues right through to the menu, which is easy to navigate but difficult to choose from. We began with cocktails: a Bellini for my partner and a gin, elderflower and cucumber tonic for me. Their drinks menu opens by pointing out they are not “mixologists”, and the ingredients really do speak for themselves. The Bellini was nectar sweet and was thoroughly enjoyed, and my G&T was light, refreshing, and almost too drinkable.
We ordered our mains from a very helpful waiter, and after around twenty-five minutes, beautifully presented on delph your Granny might use, the food arrived. I had opted for the Quinoa and Sweet Potato Burger (€11) served simply with a sweet chutney. On top of the burger is caramelised red onion, beetroot, baby gem lettuce and tomato, and both sides of the bun are coated with a layer of whipped feta. The burger itself was just a little dry, but the chutney added great taste and moisture. The sweet potato may benefit from a little more roasting, allowing it to caramelise. With the burger, I had a side of thin stemmed broccoli in satay sauce (€5), which was unusual but worked well. My partner had opted for half the Salter’s Free Roaming Chicken (€16) served with red cabbage coleslaw, and quite possibly the best chips we have ever eaten. The chicken is served on the bone, skin and all, so if you’re squeamish it could be overwhelming, but is well worth the work.
The generous portions meant one course was sufficient, but in the interest of research, we went for dessert. I enjoyed a moist Rhubarb, Yoghurt and Syrup Cake, topped with slivers of almonds. My partner’s slice of their Oreo, Peanut Butter and Chocolate Tart was even better than it sounds. The Oreo made a biscuit base topped with a thin layer of smooth peanut butter, covered with a chocolate ganache that made it a dream come true for us both. The wholeness and homeliness of the food, coupled with the modern décor, professional staff and the fair prices firmly place The Woollen Mills on the map after just three weeks of opening.
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