The Workshop – review

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The rise of the gastropub continues with Dublin’s newest offering, The Workshop, replacing J Kennedy’s next door to Tara St station on George’s Quay. A slick and polished exterior entices the hungry lunch-seeker inside on a bitterly cold afternoon to discover a quiet, relaxed and welcoming bar, charmingly decorated. The entire menu is appealing, making the choice rather agonizing, but in the end I settle for the Reuben Sandwich – a well-constructed combination of corned beef, smoked ham, coleslaw and Dijon mustard on lightly toasted granary bread, with a little pot of fresh pickles on the side — served on the ubiquitous wooden board that is the staple of eateries everywhere. The tender beef and homemade coleslaw are delicious, but unfortunately the overly sharp mustard is just a tad overpowering.  For an extra €2.50 I added the soup of the day; the Leek and Carrot offering is wonderfully flavoured and filling, with subtle hints of coriander, and a lovely drizzle of olive oil on top. The Workshop Quayside burger (€12) succeeds in tempting one of my lunch companions — an impressive mound of beef and pork on a brioche bun with cheddar, lettuce and tomato, accompanied by excellent twice-cooked chips — while the other opted for the fishboard daily special; a neatly presented selection of cod tempura, crispy fishcake and smoked salmon with tartare sauce for €16. Service is incredibly friendly and attentive, and for an establishment little over a month old, the experience would certainly encourage a return visit.

Photo by Matthew Mulligan.

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