Earlier this month Brown Thomas previewed it’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection, a unique assembly of pieces from international ready-to-wear shows. Consisting of 90 looks in total, the forthcoming collection adopts a distinctly modern take on retail collections, one that transcends the confinements of seasonal trends. It is laudable for such a commercially driven establishment to sidestep the monotonous rules of trends, instead opting for a collection built on a higher concept.
At the heart of Autumn/Winter 2016 lies a concern with the complexities of modern femininity. This served as a thought-provoking focal point from which a convergence of shapes, textures and stylings emerged. The typical romanticism of Givenchy, with its hard edges of leather and sensuous cut-outs, contrasted with the unassuming texture of Chloe’s knitwear. Traditional elegance was rendered synonymous with power-dressing in the minimalist layering of Celine’s tailored tunics over wide-legged suit trousers. A notably ample selection of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci brought its own signature brand of femininity to the collection, adding a vibrancy that could only be matched by the kaleidoscopic prints of Peter Pilotto dresses. Though the show was focused on daywear, that’s not to say there weren’t moments of frivolity. In an impressive range of evening wear from some of the industry’s most luxurious brands, the technical expertise of Alexander McQueen and Oscar de la Renta gowns alongside the modern musings of Dior further diversified this season’s interpretations of femininity.
Perhaps the most interesting pieces on show were those that expressed blatant abhorrence to traditional understanding of feminine proportions. The excessive layering of individually feminine pieces from Dries Van Noten resulted in a jarring medley of overexposed, tongue-in-cheek decadence, while the architectonic qualities of a Balenciaga ensemble exaggerated the classic A-line silhouette to a point of utter distortion. In a similar vein, the misshapen forms from Vetements were decidedly the most challenging proportions on the runway. The arrival of Vetements to Brown Thomas this season reaffirms the collection’s aim to broaden preconceived boundaries of feminine dressing. In the last few seasons, Vetements has attempted to decode many outdated elements in fashion, but their deconstruction of everyday proportions continues to be their most influential contribution.
The addition of Vetements to an already impressive stock-list of international designers is an exciting move for Brown Thomas. With it’s infectious cult appeal, the Paris-based label promises to be a lucrative purchase for the department store. The same can be said for the additions of Proenza Schouler and Loewe to the brand directory, both of which are highly valued labels in the industry. Proenza Schouler’s combination of digitally generated prints and contemporary silhouettes have enjoyed global commercial appeal, while Loewe has experienced unprecedented demand since being helmed by J.W. Anderson in 2013. Within the context of Brown Thomas, each label brings a pre-established customer following and further enriches the range of international brands that Irish consumers have direct access to. Combined with a personal understanding of its consumer, this keen attention to patterns of the international fashion economy provides the ultimate formula for the enduring success of Brown Thomas.
This collection validates Brown Thomas’ reputation both as a vital establishment within the Irish fashion industry and as a pioneering luxury department store internationally. It may have been considered a risk to curate a collection this substantial without explicitly allocating trend stories, but it was a risk worth taking. Conclusively, this collection reveals the joys of dressing as a contemporary woman and the changeability attached to that identity. Femininity can be traditional and girly, it can also be dominating and gritty, and today, it can be all things at once, or none at all. For Autumn/Winter 2016, Brown Thomas respectfully offers their consumer the choice to identify and create their own understanding of the term, making this collection one of the most inclusive to date.
