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There are few, if any, foods that have moved me to exclaim involuntarily upon the first bite. Aungier Danger’s Dublin Death-trap doughnuts tops that privileged list. These are no paltry local Spar doughnuts, no “half-price in Tesco at the end of the day” doughnuts, and no cartoon pink sprinkled cop doughnuts. Aungier Danger defies the very concept of doughnut. It transcends doughnutkind.

Despite opening its doors as recently as October 19th, it has cultivated a profile that even well-established eateries must lust after. The first week saw colossal queues, resulting in a one-per-person doughnut quota, that has since been redacted (thank God). It is not at all unusual for them to sell-out by midday, but thankfully you can keep tabs on the doughnut supply on their Facebook and Twitter. There is some speculation that this fluctuating stock is a PR move, but who cares when their beautiful, beautiful doughnuts say more than any single act of PR ever could.

I tasted three varieties of doughnut: The Crime Scene, Cherry Gunshot and the aforementioned Dublin Death-trap. The first is a take on red-velvet: rich, soft and filled to burst with cream cheese icing. The Cherry Gunshot manages, unlike almost all other cherry-flavoured things in the world, to taste like fresh cherries, and the Deathtrap is essentially a Boston Cream that puts all actual Boston Creams to shame. They are spongy and light, and manage to be mouth-wateringly delicious without being sickening. All doughnuts are priced at €3 and are so large that even one was difficult to finish.

The shop itself is modest, consisting of a single long counter and no seating space. They also do not accept card. Coffee is sourced from The Barn, a specialist German roasting company. I ordered a long black which I found had a pleasantly distinctive rich, zesty flavour. However it’s not a coffee I would necessarily seek out again. In Aungier Danger anything that is not doughnuts is backstage. The spotlight is reserved for those heavenly morsels that dance in my dreams.