Originally published in print December 2020.
In the world of fashion, wanting to look tacky and kitschy is this antithesis of style and any true fashion aficionado hopes to avoid it at all cost — unless it is for some high fashion gala. However, every year, come December, we throw these rules away, young or old, conservative or bold, and participate in the yearly winter tradition of garish, and sometimes, downright ugly Christmas jumpers. Every street and department store is filled with adults and children alike adorned in brightly coloured wools with audacious stitching, proudly proclaiming their holiday cheer, no matter what is en vogue or not. But where did this tradition come from? How has it transformed and lasted as a lovingly strange ritual that we can’t help but take part in, even if it goes against our better style judgment?
To get to the bottom of this question, we must travel back to 19th century Scandinavia, where fishermen, having to work on ice-filled seas, would don very elaborately knitted sweaters, covered in patterns of snowflakes, deer, and other Nordic iconography. While understandably versatile, as the woolen fabric kept them warm against the cold wind of the arctic seas, they were definitely a bold fashion statement. Strangely the jumper would stay fairly isolated until the 20th century when professional skiers would be seen wearing them. Suddenly, Hollywood caught wind of these strange garments and they could be found on some of the largest stars of the time, like Clark Gable and Ingrid Bergman, which brought their popularity into the mainstream. These styles would continue in popularity through the Second World War, as these garments were fairly cheap to produce and looked nice on advertisements, which was an industry that was beginning to grow t. In the 50s, designers like Coco Chanel and Jean Patou continued the tradition by having ornately designed sweaters and knitwear as part of their winter collections. This trend would continue long into the 60s and 70s as knitwear would become a staple trend in both decades. These jumpers were the perfect mix of cheap, customizable, and practical, so it was no wonder their popularity took off.
However, it wouldn’t be until the 1980s where we would see a more modern understanding of the Christmas jumper, or the aptly named American version, the ugly Christmas sweater. The fashion scene of the 80s was bright and bold and therefore perfect for the Christmas jumper to evolve into its new form. It particularly took off within the UK and Ireland, often being worn by Christmas special hosts (especially the many hosts of Ireland’s beloved Late Late Toy Show), before spreading to the United States and the rest of the world. From New Wave stars like Boy George to Chevy Chase’s character in National Lampoon’s Christmas, the jumper could not be escaped. The sweaters began to steer away from their Icelandic routes and now were filled with tinsel and outrageous designs often featuring Santa and reindeer and sometimes even lights and music. Again, the popularity was founded in its affordability, which still allowed individual tastes to come forward. As the jumper evolved, they became more and more camp, and more and more a dose of holiday fun anyone could take a part in. By the 90s and 2000s, the Christmas jumper was a fan favourite gag gift for people to give each other, which perfectly walked the line between silly and practical. In 2001, the film Bridget Jones’ Diary brought the sweater into even more popularity, cementing it as a pop culture icon. Further, the industry has boomed within the world of eCommerce and you can find a sweater for everyone and every niche, from Star Wars themed ones to ones made by your favourite band. Even better, the jumper has evolved past being a Christmas only staple, and there are more general holiday versions and those of other religions, particularly Hannukah. This expansion of the jumper genre has made it more available and inclusive to all people so that everyone can join in on this centuries-old fun!
Today, the Christmas jumper lives on and I don’t see it going anytime soon. While it’s hard to pinpoint exactly how these ugly sweaters have survived all these years, it is not a mere Christmas miracle. To begin with, they are very practical for the cold season, mostly made of wool and thick acrylic, and they offer an alternative to the often very boring winter season clothing options you typically find. Further, they have always been made cheaply and are readily available to the public, specifically finding a niche with middle class audiences. Finally, though this is just my theory, Christmas and the holiday season brings out the inner child in all of us, and these sweaters offer a way for us to experience a little silliness in our wardrobe. This silliness and sincerity are what has made these jumpers a campy Christmas classic we aren’t looking to get rid of any time soon.
