●●●●○

Photo by Huda Awan.

The awkwardly-shaped unit on Dawson Street which once held Café Sol has seen several iterations since that business closed in 2013. The short-lived, concept store The Walter Mitty Coffee Project, with its graffiti wall and urban décor, had been known for its latte art before it vanished in favour of a city centre outlet for Greystones-based Café Gray in early 2014. Café Gray had earned a loyal clientele for its high-quality coffee and its fresh sandwiches, and many students seemed apprehensive at the prospect of yet another tenant.

Sprout and Co. had already developed a strong reputation as a supplier of juices to outlets across Dublin. The company website boasts that Elle Macpherson is a fan, and with cold pressed offerings including the kale-rich Supergreen and Beetroot based Mr Beattie, the juices pack a flavoursome punch. This reputation in tow, it was curious to see that the new Sprout and Co. Kitchen would not be a mere juice bar, but would be a new food concept, spinning traditional expectations of café food on their head.

Whereas the previous tenants in this unit posited coffee as the main event, with food offerings there to complement the espresso, the Sprout Kitchen food is very much the focus. The high quality of coffee is maintained from its predecessor Café Gray, thanks to the maintenance of Dublin supplier 3FE, and a retention of many of Café Gray’s staff. Some aspects of the establishment seem somewhat excessive. The potted herbs and various leaves seen on shelves and counters all bear labels, which presumably are solely for the benefit of the staff, making the experience feel overtly educational. The choice to provide only biodegradable plastic cutlery and paper cups rather than reusable alternatives seems odd. Raw Protein Balls, at around €3, are unlikely to cement themselves as part of the coffee-to-go experience, and the choice of stools at high tables mean that it’s quite difficult to get comfortable and spend a long afternoon here; it is better placed as a spot for a quick lunch.

While moderately more expensive than other student food haunts, the prices are very reasonable considering the high quality, with all meals ringing in at well under a tenner, and a variety of options on offer. The recipes for their salad bowls and wraps make use of fresh, mostly Irish ingredients, with leafy greens like kale, rocket, and spinach featuring heavily. One also has the option of choosing to create one’s own salad bowl, picking a protein, various leaves and other fresh salad ingredients and dressings, for a filling meal. A similar option is offered for soups, with a Build Your Own Miso option listed on the menu. The portion sizes themselves seem excessive, in bowls significantly larger than the ordinary salad bowl, easily large enough to feed two. A hearty wrap costs €6.95, and paired with a soup comes to €9.95. I ordered a neatly-rolled falafel wrap and an Indian Lentil Soup, and was surprised at the clean texture, rich in kale and carrot and devoid of oil, marking it as a healthier way to eat falafel. The soup was a delight in itself, with the choice of spices not overshadowing the base flavour of the red lentils.

The Sprout Kitchen is a welcome addition to the area. Burrito-weary students would be well-advised to spend the extra euro and drop in for one of their wraps.