WORDS: Cian Clynes
What we learnt is that you’re never going to be another Jameson. Jameson is an animal and if you compete against it you’re going to get killed. So you’ve got to be clever, so you say that there’s always people who want more flavour, or a different story behind it, that they can make a cocktail with.
Whiskey distilling has been a part of Irish culture and heritage for centuries. The production of this ancient drink can be traced back to Irish monasteries in the 12th century AD. At its peak in the late 18th century, Irish whiskey production consisted of over 100 whiskey making operations, supplying domestic and international markets with whiskey renowned for its velvety, smooth tones and sweet finish.
With the economic constraints of 20th century Ireland came the death of the Irish independent distillery. One by one, micro-distilleries faded from the Irish landscape. The craft of distilling became nothing more than whisperings of legend and folklore. What remained was an industry devoid of tradition and lacking any attachment to Irish sentiment.
The passion for artisan whiskey distilling, thought to have been relegated to Irish history, has been rekindled in the work of the Teeling Whiskey Company and Dingle Whiskey Company. A newfound optimism has captured the Irish whiskey industry as these two independent producers forge the way for further growth of the artisan whiskey market.
In a sector dominated by large multi-national corporations, Jack Teeling, of Teeling Whiskey Company, stressed the importance of deviating from a path shrouded by the long shadow of industry giants Diageo and Jameson. “What we learnt is that you’re never going to be another Jameson. Jameson is an animal and if you compete against it you’re going to get killed. So you’ve got to be clever, so you say that there’s always people who want more flavour, or a different story behind it, that they can make a cocktail with.”
This fear and respect of large, established producers is a sentiment shared by Fiona Roche of Dingle Whiskey Company. “We’re not in competition,” she explained, “We are a unique distillery given that we are the only Irish owned (distillery) at present. We produce in small batches and our whiskey is single malt, triple copper pot-stilled whiskey produced in Dingle. So we’re not in competition. We are producing something quite different and whiskey is the ‘in’ drink at the moment. There are more and more people of a younger age group drinking whiskey.”
It is this new, younger whiskey drinker which is fuelling the renaissance in craft whiskey production. While many point towards the desire of this new generation of whiskey consumer to move away from mass produced, commercial brands in search of hand crafted, original products, Jack Teeling feels that the rebirth of Irish independent whiskey lies on the palates of today’s youth. The unique traits that separate Irish whiskey from Scotch or American brands are now the characteristics sought by a younger demographic, Teeling explained. “It’s because of the temperate environment in Ireland you get that soft and mellow style of whiskey. That’s what Ireland, for hundreds of years, has been famous for. And now that’s what’s suitable for a modern palate, which seems to like sweet, easy to drink soft drinks. People have been brought up on Gatorade and Snapple. All of these are sweet, fruity flavours and when this gets transferred to adult age people want the same. Irish whiskey is smooth, sweet and very accessible and a very easy entry point for people who want to get into brown spirits. This is attracting a whole new group of consumers in markets like the US.”
With growing demand for independent whiskey in both domestic and foreign markets guaranteed for several years to come, one could fear that Ireland’s independent producers may lose sight of their rich and storied history in attempts to expand their operations and capitalise on investment opportunities. Teeling stresses the importance of the independence of Irish distilleries in giving producers autonomy over any and all attempts to create a truly unique product. It is this autonomy that allows each individual producer to approach the distilling process in a manner which enables them to craft their whiskey, from its nascent beginnings to the subtle nuances and flavours of the completed cask.
When asked to explain the difference between the process of distilling as an independent producer to that of a large multi-national company, Teeling’s passion for the craft of whiskey distilling shone through. “It’s the decision making. People give a shit to be honest with you. If you’re a cog in a big machine then you don’t really care. You’re there for the paycheck, your shares. People are telling you what to do, and you’re just doing it. You’re working under a very defined framework, so if you’re a reactive person who’s used to making decisions, then it’s very constrained.”
With several independent distilleries set to begin production of artisan whiskey over the next three years, the nadir of Irish whiskey distilling can now be looked upon as just another part of this ancient craft’s rich heritage. For those producers who will carry the practice of independent whiskey distilling into the future, there remains a desire to remain rooted to the traditions of the past and honour the myth and legend of the craft. “The brand is trying to reflect where we came from, the origins of where our family started distilling. That is in Dublin,” Teeling said when speaking of the direction Teeling Whiskey Company will take in to the future. “What we really want to do is build a new distillery in Dublin and bring distilling back into the city, as it was the heart of the Irish whiskey industry. The tradition of craft and distilling in Dublin has gone. We really want to be part of that and go back to The Liberties particularly, which was the industrial engine of the city and bring back the craft.”
While the presence of both Teeling and Dingle whiskey companies has certainly raised hope for the emergence of more micro-distilleries across the country, a long road ahead is yet to be travelled. What awaits in the future of this industry remains to be seen as a new chapter in the story of Irish whiskey is only beginning.
