WORDS: AARON DEVINE
It is hard to doubt the newfound place the burrito has carved for itself in Dublin’s cultural lexicon. It may come as no surprise then that one of the instigators of this Mexican/Tex-Mex/Californian food phenomenon, Pablo Picante, have taken the leap into newer territory, introducing Dublin’s handheld-food enthusiasts to the torta.
OK so a torta is basically just a sandwich. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. But I will allow Pablo (heads up, he’s not an actual person) to use whatever terminology he sees fit as his sandwiches might just be the best this side of Guadalajara. In fact, what we have here is a deconstructed burrito; the components are similar but, with tortas, we have less of the flavour-sucking starch, making for a lighter, more balanced affair that allows for the quality ingredients to really shine. But the torta isn’t what the burrito wants to be, and the former will never replace the latter. The torta is the burrito in finer clothes, the Michael Haneke to the burrito’s Michael Bay.
And again it’s because the ingredients can take centre-stage. Particularly with the meat, the attention to detail comes through, with every well-seasoned, slow-cooked bite wrapped in the floury embrace of a fresh ciabatta-style roll. No longer is there some pulled pork screaming to be heard over the noise of different salsas and drowned in cream and cheese. Instead we have the “Tinga Torta,” a more sophisticated offering complete with a subtle yet delicious jalapeño aioli.
The star of the menu, as its name suggests, is “El Magnifico,” an (inevitably) magnificent concoction that was rightly lauded by our friends at Totally Dublin as one of the best sandwiches in the city. Again accompanied by one of Pablo’s signature aiolis, it will make you ashamed of having eaten that chicken fillet baguette earlier in the week.
The only real concern is separate to the food completely. So far, Pablo’s Tortas lacks the authentic charm and atmosphere of its busier burrito brothers. This could be down to the strange high seating that renders the downstairs space a bit awkward, or simply because punters are too paralysed by hunger-fuelled determination on their way to the burrito bar next door.
Either way, Pablo is likely going to be pretty well-fed. And I doubt that will change. At least he is keeping us all pretty well-fed along the way too.
Pablo’s Torta’s – Clarendon Market – Dublin 2
