Culturally reflective of Milan’s historic origins in luxury tailoring and atelier, Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 expressed luxe fashion with a subversive undertone. Similar to London, shorter scheduling and the merging of mens and womenswear created a frantic atmosphere, with many tailors opting out of traditional shows in general.

 

An alluring sense of protection was the main focus of many of the collections, with anonymity and fetishisation taking control of Moschino and Palm Angels. Jeremy Scott presented an extremely confident appraisal of high-end leather provocative suits and gimp masks. Scott described it “a tug-of-war for the clothes, taking suit jackets and suiting and pinstripes and bankers’ garb and trying to render it new in a more exciting, aggressive, unexpected way.”

 

Intertwining men and women, incorporating diverse queer identities and representing them as a cohesive attack on conventionality within the stereotypical business world, Scott elegantly presented a distinct worldview. Creating a dichotomy between aggressive rigid jackets with floral prints, the looks were cohesive, and sensually engaging. The show ended with a tandem tuxedo worn by two genderless models, forcing the audience to see past male and female stereotypes in fashion.

 

Palm Angels also expressed an intense appreciation for anonymity, presenting faceless models wearing spiked balaclavas. With obvious American inspiration, Francesco Ragazzi indulged denim and flannel prints. The use of Grant Wood’s famous painting ‘American Gothic’ as a pattern on workwear shirts was culturally significant, teasing the idea of unity of art and culture among the working class. Handbags took the main spotlight, with models holding them outward, showcasing their colourful and petit structure.

 

Unfortunately, Prada fell short of achieving a similar audience reaction, as many critics were left underwhelmed by the repetition of 90s prints and use of the flame motif. What can be understood as an embracement of 1990s nylon fabric, the collection ultimately felt lazy, lacking the fresh creativity shown by other designers.

 

Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2018 was a departure from the vivacious youth culture expressed by British designers in London Fashion Week Men’s. Remaining true to its Italian heritage, designers dared to be extravagant, sexually charged and liberal.

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(Moschino Collection)

(Palm Angels Collection)

(Prada)