Originally published in the Summer Issue 2020.
When trying to figure out what to write for my first ever piece in print, my mind went to a couple of different places. How we as a society should come together to ban flip flops from being worn anywhere but a beach? Being the flighty Libra that I am, I eventually settled on a place that holds a special place in my heart: Harajuku.
Where do I even begin? Harajuku is a fashion wonderland, and whether you love or hate the trends that have emerged from the area, experiencing Harajuku fashion is like being in another dimension.
Well, to be honest, that’s just Japan as a whole. Travelling in Japan is incomparable to being anywhere else in the world – and I swear that on Gaga’s Chromatica. Everything is just better. No rotten people pushing on the bus. Each train station has their own unique theme song that plays when you get on and off – get on YouTube and have a listen!. There are ‘smart toilets’ that play music so no one else can hear you doing your business (and a built-in bidet, how chic!).
One of my favourite places in the world without a doubt is Harajuku. The vibes? Immaculate. The coffee? Amazing. Oh, and the fashion (which is 100% why you’re reading this, duh, fashion section)? EVERYTHING. Harajuku is an area located in the Shibuya district, and although its is not that big, has made its mark on the world! Tokyo is a fashionable place by any standards, but Harajuku is the place. Over 37 million people live in Tokyo alone, so style differs, but streetwear is immensely popular, as well as business casual. Harajuku is more high-fashion/contemporary, ala McQueen! Still in a city as big as Tokyo, who knows what you’ll find!
Harajuku is interesting as it actually began as a small town where, after the war, U.S military servicemen went to shop and to use what services were available back then! Harajuku JR (JR is short for ‘Japanese Rail’ – there are SO many train companies, hence the very confusing maps!) station was built shortly after and the district eventually began gaining more and more popularity when it became pedestrianised. Harajuku and the surrounding areas became the hot spot for artists, fashion kids and performers to hang out (Funny story, I actually sang Cindy Lauper’s ‘Girls just wanna have fun’ with a man doing karaoke at the entrance to Yogi Park opposite Harajuku on my last trip — it was the greatest collaboration since Gaga and Beyonce)
Now, here’s the real tea of how it became known for wild fashion trends. In the 1980s, Tokyo’s street performers and fashion elite had to find a new hangout spot when Ototesando, located right beside Harajuku, was closed due to traffic. Harajuku was deemed the new ‘it’ spot for this group. The huge Hokoten (meaning ‘Walker’s Paradise’, due to the closure of streets specifically for pedestrians to mingle) scene in the 90s further boosted Harajuku as the new spot. Shoichi Aoki, a renowned photographer, started to photograph the wild, crazy and high fashion looks he would see being worn around Harajuku for his magazine ‘FRUiTs’. This magazine became an instant hit for showcasing the region’s amazing outfits.
While the opening of traffic to Harajuku may have eliminated the idea of Hokoten there, the fashion culture of Harajuku is still present and alive. Since traffic opened up the area, there was less space for people to mingle and generally just chill, without having to spend a fortune on a cafe or shopping. Hokoten is still done in other areas of Tokyo such as Ginza and Shibuya.
The fashion there is beyond anything else I’ve seen. The account @tokyofashion on Instagram is dedicated to Japanese street fashion, shot primarily around Harajuku and highlights the style walking the streets. They photograph anyone with good style, ranging from high school students all the way to influencers and full time workers. https://www.instagram.com/p/CATN8-VFriU/ https://www.instagram.com/p/B8CW3OuF2MJ/
Harajuku is interesting, as like fashion itself, it has its own trends. ‘Harajuku Decora’ is one of the most well known worldwide. Most of us know that infamous Coco Chanel quote: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take at least one thing off.” Decora is the opposite. This style is all about colour and accessorizing to the MAX. The style was immensely popular around 2010, but the popularity weaned after a couple of years. The style is still around, and many shops around Takashita street cater for those obsessed with Decora.
Lolita is also huge, a style that centres around classical Rococo and Victorian dresses – particularly in pastel and light colours. The overall effect is angelic and regal. Goth Lolita uses the opposite colour palette, with black and dark greys being the star of the show. Goth Lolita for many is about mystery and, to me, a sense of edge.
One of the latest trends to take over the streets of Harajuku is ‘Yami-Kawaii’ which literally translates to ‘Cute Darkness’. The style is a commentary on mental illness, using a juxtaposition of cute clothes with a more serious theme to help bring the topic of mental health to the forefront.
Even the food is a trend there. Harajuku crepes are a must when in the area. Cheesecake and ice-cream in a crepe? GIMME NOW! The huge rainbow cotton candy trend that flooded Instagram also came from the streets of Harajuku. I think the extreme elements that make Harajuku ‘Harajuku’ spread even to the food. The food goes to the extreme, more so than usual. Instagramming yourself in a trendy outfit eating or drinking a trendy food item is the ‘new normal’ and Harajuku is no exception. Look at cronuts or even scrumdiddlys ice cream, it’s a culture present everywhere.
Takashita street is the most popular street in Harajuku, with literally EVERYTHING. There’s stores just for accessories, unreal vintage shops (fully stocked with incredible pieces at really great prices), big chain shops like WEGO (a nicer but pricier Urban Outfitters) and of course multiple spots to get some snacks.
Harajuku is fashion and fashion is Harajuku. Everything about it is constantly changing, but so are the people. It’s a place of community, youth, energy and joy. If you want fashion, look no further than Harajuku and the rabbit hole to wonderland awaits!
