Featherblades – Review

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A vegetarian mistakenly walks into a steak restaurant. Not a joke, rather an event, which is now a review. Here’s a better one perhaps: what’s black and noisy on the outside, understated and cosy on the inside? Answer: Featherblade, Dawson Street. Steak eaters would know that a feather blade is a cut of cow; I contained my wince as this was described.

The interior contrasts with the street outside; shiny tile with dark grey, nearing black paint sections, wooden shelves. We sat on wooden benches with a feather filled black cushion, neutralising the discomfort you feel when looking at a hardwood bench.

Cocktails kicked things off. The old fashioned was strong but not overpowering, with evident citrus notes. The lavender gin and tonic had no lavender taste or colour but came with a wedge of grapefruit, and was refreshing and potent. At €7.50, they’re good value by Dublin standards. Starters were the €8 tomato and polenta chips on a bed of leaves, bursting with deep flavour. The balsamic dressing was sweet but not too sticky, not too thick. Also ordered was sole with gremolata, lemon curd, apple and fennel salad. Both of them could have been warmer.

The stakes were high. The steaks were served. I wished for emojis to be acceptable in print journalism. Let me introduce to you the hero of our story: my omnivore friend. I shall present her views as my own. We ordered the two steaks on offer. The hanger steak was the recommended medium rare with an undescribed marinade with hints of ginger. It was accompanied by the (also recommended) pesto-like sauce of herb and garlic. The feather blade steak with whiskey pepper sauce was tender but reliant on the sauce for flavour. For sides, we got chips and kale, yellow courgette and carrot salad. The perfectly cooked kale had notes of aniseed and no visible dressing, yet it was perfectly seasoned, topped with lightly toasted sesame seeds. Again, the chips were a little on the cold side. Vegetarians can opt for the famed (so I am told) mac n’ cheese or have two starters.

Be prepared to pay. It’s €13 for a steak and some leaves, but sauce and a side are €1.50 and €3.50 respectively, so realistically the main course is €18. My advice is to go for the cocktails and sides alone – though don’t plan a library session afterwards.

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