Originally published in print March 2021.
Ru Paul’s Drag Race has become a global phenomenon in recent years. What started out as a LGBTQIA+ staple, has now breached its way into mainstream culture and has given a platform to queer artists around the world. Simultaneously, it has raised the bar for the art of drag, and fashion wise, it has given birth to some notorious fashion queens.
The art of drag and fashion are the ultimate collaborators, resulting in an amalgamation of curated, couture looks, with a drag twist. Fashion queens, such as Gigi Goode, Symone and Crystal Methyd, are just some examples of fashion excellence highlighted on Drag Race, each bringing an intelligent twist to the runway. Each contestant has shown versatility and individuality in challenges, but particularly on the runway. In turn, these queens, as well as countless others, have sashayed across our screens and inspired many to get involved in the art form. They have elevated fashion within drag and inspired a wave of creativity in our community. The competitive level within drag has risen, and a standard has almost been set. Queens are investing more, learning more from the show and incorporating trends into their new looks. Chaps, which made a major comeback in the 2019 festival season, were reverent all throughout the drag scene, as well as tulle. Drag was always a major part of fashion, but its importance is now being given the respect it deserves. The 2019 Met Gala focused on Susan Sontag’s “Notes on Camp”, which honestly could have just been on the runway of Drag Race.
The runway on Drag Race has now become a tricky obstacle for many a queen. To slay the runway, you must be either creative or have bank. Michelle Visage once said “You don’t need money for drag”, which was a gross miscalculation of how much these queens spend to prepare for the show. While some may have a wardrobe full of looks, the runway criteria may call for a space themed look or even a 2-in-1 piece. Adding in the cost of materials, fees for a designer (if needed), wigs, accessories and makeup, an entire look for one runway could be costly. Factor in that they could be there for anywhere between one episode or twelve, it is a high volume of money on a single competition. Queens have been said to spend thousands on Drag Race, only to be sent home after a few episodes.
Ru Paul’s meltdown over a H&M dress on Drag Race UK showed us that drag has changed, and that there is a cost to compete in the race. While a queen may be talented at acting or singing, not having a wardrobe of looks to show to back up the talent after a performance can be detrimental in the competition. I think it’s unfair that queens have to have custom looks for a competition in order to further their progress and to win challenges. It seems to put those in unstable financial waters at an unfair disadvantage, possibly going into debt over an opportunity to further their career.
The sewing challenges do highlight the raw fashion talent in the show, and convey the creative side of drag. Awhora of Drag Race UK season two is a prime example. As a recent fashion graduate, she used her skills to win a challenge by constructing a NHS tribute look out of a light fixture and plastic tarp. The transformation of everyday items, such as curtains or tape, into a high-fashion garment is an incredible skill and really brings Drag Race back to its roots. Another example would be Naomi Smalls of Drag Race season 8 and All Stars 4 who used sheets of paper to make a couture gown. Drag at its very essence is creative, born out a desire for expression, and so both freedom and fashion are integral .
While I do believe that the runway element of Drag Race is unfair, it is also my favourite part of every episode, as I love to see what every queen brings to the runway. Every episode is always surprising and exciting, which is at the heart of what fashion is.
