Illustration by Lola Fleming

 

While sitting at home during lockdown, consuming disgusting amounts of Netflix and falling down Youtube rabbit holes, I stumbled upon a video that had Sasha Velour, Crowned Queen of Ru Paul’s Drag Race Season 9, reviewing outfits from the Met Gala 2019. While unfortunately the 2020 Met Gala has been postponed due to Coronavirus (sad react), this will give last year’s attendees time to focus on not repeating the mistakes they made the last time. The 2019 Gala was based upon Susan Sontag’s ‘Notes on Camp’, an essay published in 1964. Attendees were meant to show up with looks inspired by the thematic concern of the essay: camp. Needless to say, the mark was missed by many and, honestly, it was a train wreck for the most part. Sontag describes “camp” as “love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration.” This is enough, in my opinion, to understand the theme. Camp is not necessarily about being the most stunning or glamorous, but taking whatever you’re doing to the next level, to the point where it doesn’t take itself too seriously and transforms the idea of “things being what-they-are-not” according to Sontag. Camp can be seen everywhere, from nightlife to movies. From a glance at the essay, the idea of camp is not hard to grasp and with that the stage was set for what was to be an incredible night of fashion for fans around the world. 

We were wrong. 

I will admit, some attendees really turned up and should be highlighted for the excellence displayed on the steps of the Met. Lady Gaga serving both four looks and performance art truly set the bar for the night, and showed us how camp was done, while adding her own references with Easter eggs hidden in her looks (the Joanne hat in the clear suitcase, I live). Billy Porter being carried onto the steps and spreading those gold wings highlighted the theatrical element of the theme. The Kardashian-Jenners were in attendance, with Kim wearing Thierry Mugler, and Kylie and Kendall serving camp with ostrich feathers. A favourite of mine was Jourdan Dunn in Zac Posen, wearing what looked like a shiny dark purple gown but was actually made out of plastic layers that resembled a flower. Of course labels such as Moschino and Christian Siriano, in my opinion, hit the theme on the mark and gave us looks that were unforgettable. 

Now, I have to get sad and write about how some looks were so off that I’m surprised they were allowed in. 

First off, the fact that for the theme of camp some male attendees came dressed in suits (gorgeously made suits, but plain suits) is beyond me. Sontag writes in her essay that “the hallmark of Camp is the spirit of extravagance…Camp is art that proposes itself seriously, but cannot be taken altogether seriously because it is ‘too much’’”. It’s clear to see that while some made the choice to wear a suit, they spun their own twist on the camp theme such as Malik whose Jeremy Scott beaded suits which embodied the art nouveau element of camp, and of course the iconic Ezra Miller whose suit-dress combination stunned the crowds and raised the bar for the other attendees. Turning up to a camp-themed gala in a basic suit with a few flakes of gold in your hair (I’m looking at you Shawn Mendes) is not camp. It’s lazy and I said what I said, sorry not sorry. 

Now, on to dresses, the classic for a red-carpet event. Highlights for me were Charli XCX in Jean Paul Gautier, Dominique Jackson in Victor Glamund, and Saoirse Ronan and Florence Welsh in Gucci. Not many went wrong in this section to be fair, but a few didn’t exactly meet the match. Some wore plain gowns, like Charlotte Tilbury (I couldn’t believe she wore a debs dress) and others just went too far. Camp in essence is something attempting “to be extraordinary, but in the way of being special and glamorous” as described by Sontag. It’s evident that some saw the word “camp” and became extraordinary without any glamour.

What we can learn from this Met Gala is to do your research. I found Sontag’s essay online with a google search, and it’s really worth a read. It highlights what camp is clearly and references so many things, so it’s hard to understand why some missed the mark. The essay was important and displayed the idea of camp fashion to masses, but forgot to mention that camp fashion is rooted in queer culture. Camp can be seen in queer art, music, fashion and nightlife.The Club Kid scene was prominent in the 80s/90s and was a renaissance of queer art and nightlife. Club Kids began as a group of party goers, dressed in crazy costumes and basically walking art. Huge names such as Ru Paul, James St. James and Leigh Bowery are some examples of Club Kids. Their effect on fashion, art and culture can still be seen today. The Club Kid culture, which was huge in the 80s/90s, elevated art and fashion into something different, but never taking itself too seriously. One attendee to acknowledge this was Lena Waithe, whose suit had “Black Drag Queens invented Camp” on the back. Queer history is often erased from text books, and 2019 was the 50 year anniversary of the Stonewall Riots, so it was huge that Lena acknowledged that. It’s also important to note that it was the first time a drag artist walked the Met. Both Violet Chachki and Aquaria, RuPaul Drag Race winners, matched the themes. It was a shame more drag queens weren’t invited to the Met, considering the theme. The art of drag itself is camp, and in my opinion, Drag artists would have put some of the attendees to shame. Juku, a Brooklyn-based drag artist, has held a “Met Gayla” for the past two years, and features a variety of performance artists. The looks and performances from 2019’s ‘Met Gayla’ put a spotlight on how camp was embedded in queer culture and showed how the theme was meant to be portrayed. You can follow Juku @jukufornow on Instagram to see their work.