Thom Browne SS18

It all started with a dream… This is the premise for the Thom Browne spring/summer 2018 fashion show, one of the most controversial and extraordinary of the season. In the enchanting location of the Hotel de Ville in Paris, the American designer created a fairy-like and ethereal atmosphere, evoking the pure fantasies of childhood. A constellation of beautiful and supernatural creatures, the show was articulated as a story, with different chapters and scenarios, recalling the dynamic that leads from sleep to dreams. In the room, a white big bed of chiffon and taffeta cradles two sleepy girls, modern Briar Roses dressed in haute couture, and, like a crescendo of underwater bubbles, they are led into the imaginary world of a fashion reverie. The central salon, where the magic took place, was decorated with colour-changing spherical chandeliers, recalling the lost city of Atlantis, a watery symbolism which reoccurs throughout the show. To the nostalgic melody of The Little Mermaid’s Part of Your World, the show starts, and the runway is populated with dancing models and amazing dresses. The collection is a perfect balance between prèt – à – porter and haute couture, and the handcrafted clothes represent not only the extravagance of the designer, but also his ability to create original pieces for everyday life. Siren cut dresses and embroidered coats are alternated with alien dresses shaped like the melted mush of a destroyed sand castle. A sensationally beautiful range of fabric was enhanced thanks to a cornucopia of vivid colours, from delicate and elegant pastels, to bright and flaming hues.  Closing with the cavalcade of a majestic and candid unicorn, the Thom Browne spring/summer show was an emblem of the powerfully imaginative world of fashion, where creativity is like a magical mechanism that triggers our hidden dreams and brings them to life. Between an aquarium and a planetarium, this show was the promise of an everlasting and inextinguishable beauty, the sign that a new avant – garde of designers is finally ready to emerge and shine in the Pleiades of a fashion universe.  

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