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From the Brutalist confinements of a car park on Drury Street, out walked Dylan Moran, one of Ireland’s most exciting modelling talents, wearing only a white suit jacket and trousers, styled with a white choker. Welcome to Sector 9, a menswear show presented by Men’s Fashion Ireland as part of the annual Dublin Fashion Festival. The irreverence of this opening look alone signifies a new era for the Irish menswear industry. Try not to judge the hyperbolic undertones of that statement too harshly. Seeing an effeminate interpretation of a traditional silhouette juxtaposed against an aggressively masculine space ought to be deemed considerably progressive, especially for an industry that has been historically stagnant in Ireland.
Men’s Fashion Ireland is the online, print and TV media brainchild of Adam Gaffey. Gaffey’s first hand experience of the international fashion industry combined with his innate sensibility towards the Irish consumer, provides the foundations for the quarterly print magazine and indeed, the Autumn/Winter 2016 show. The show is divided into three scenes; ‘Formal Wear’, ‘Texture’ and ‘Military’. MFI aims to present trends familiar to its consumer. However, by undermining the expectations of blanket masculinity associated with these ideas, MFI posited an exploratory collection that feels entirely fresh. At once a celebration of masculine themes and a questioning of what they might look like in 2016. This gestures to one of the most intriguing conversations currently surrounding menswear at a macro level. Think Saint Laurent, or even Gucci but if you mentally arrived at Jaden Smith you’ve gone too far. MFI is adamant in appealing to a specific Irish consumer who perhaps isn’t entirely ready for that level of eccentricity. However, it is this connection to a distinctly Irish identity that elevates Sector 9 from the trivial to the authentic.
Collectively, the production ran seamlessly. From hair and makeup to sound, the professional execution of the event reinforced MFI’s decidedly earnest offering to the Irish fashion industry. Still, it is apparent that their M.V.P. is stylist Brian Conway. Having compiled forty looks using fashions available in Dublin, Conway’s runway managed to remain consistent while operating within a satisfyingly controlled colour story. ‘Formal Wear’ proved to be a perfect summary of the democratic nature of this show. A series of white high tops from Primark paired with technically sophisticated Magee suits illustrated Conway’s seemingly effortless ability to team high street labels with designer brands.
The ‘Texture’ scene, brimming with nods to international collections, came next. Pairing Topman Design’s brown velvet trousers with a floral print shirt paid tribute to Dries Van Noten and Gucci. The heavy use of check and houndstooth was reminiscent of Fendi, Lou Dalton and Dior Homme. However, it was the closing sequence of ‘Military’ that saw Conway truly flex his creative muscle. Jumpers beneath utility jackets beneath trench coats. Bags and dog tags, loafers, flatforms and desert boots. This dynamism made ‘Military’ the most stylised scene of all; a paradoxical combination of individualism and uniformity. ‘Military’ provided a thought provoking finale to an already contemplative show.
By remaining considerate of the Irish consumer’s identity, while simultaneously locating them within international fashion movements, MFI succeeded in presenting ideas that are palatable, yet inspired. So what does Autumn/Winter 2016 look like for men? According to the team at Men’s Fashion Ireland, this season is utilitarian, layered and fitted. Above all, the season challenges you to rethink the everyday perceptions of masculinity in your wardrobe. While the show doesn’t radicalise the concept of masculinity, there was strength in it’s subtlety, leaving us with a show that reflected the evolving state of Dublin’s menswear scene.
