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Tucked in a corner beside the Lighthouse Cinema in Smithfield is My Meat Wagon. Arriving there for lunch, we were greeted by friendly staff and shared tables, which were topped with tins of mismatched cutlery and spools of kitchen roll, beside benches I feared splinters from. We were the youngest people there by about ten years. The vague lunch menu consists of three choices: meat on bread, meat in a box and meat on a board. Depending on the price, ranging from €12.95 to €14.95, you can have one or two sides — corn on the cob, red cabbage coleslaw, beans and chips for example.  I went for the first option, a beef burger in a bun, with a side of chips, while my partner chose the meat on a board, with chips and coleslaw. The chips on both were too hard and crunchy and, for some reason, served in a tiny shopping trolley. The burger — mashed together plain mince beef — is pink inside (though they did not ask my preference), and is served in a small plain bun, with the usual trimmings of mustard, gherkins and relish. The meat on a board, however, consists of well-cooked slices of beef, a half of very moist chicken and sweet pulled pork. They make no bones about it: they are a meat restaurant that will serve some good meat, and only meat. But with loud music, dim lighting, quirky (albeit superfluous) finishing touches, the price tag just does not match the vibe.

My Meat Wagon is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday, in Smithfield Square. Photo by Aifric Ni Chriodain.