Fencing Fashion

Fencing is a striking and dynamic sport that has captured the imagination of film-makers, photographers and fashion designers alike. From George Petty’s pin-ups, to recent runway shows, the unique attire of the fencer has become a familiar trope, recognisable even to those who have never participated in the sport. With Inter-varsities fast approaching, we caught up with Trinity’s fencing club to learn more about their unusual costumes.


 

Trinity College is home to one of Ireland’s most established fencing clubs, DUFC. Although they share an acronym with the Rugby Club, the attire of the fencing club sets them far apart from the other athletes that populate the campus. Founded in 1774, DUFC has been the duelling ground for student competitors ever since, with the club winning 39 of 50 Inter-varsity championships to date. Recent successes include the receipt of “University Pinks” by two DUFC members, and an incredible twelve medal triumph at the Maynooth Novice competition by the club’s novice members. With this year’s Inter-varsity Championship fast approaching, a selection of members of the DUFC committee have taken time out of their busy schedule to indulge our curiosity and answer the immortal question: “what on earth are you wearing?”

Due to the combative nature of the sport, fencing requires specialist equipment and attire to ensure the safety of its practitioners.  The protective clothing worn during fencing is often made of tough cotton, nylon, and Kevlar. In order to prevent puncture by blades, the resistance (in newtons) of the fabrics used are measured, with FIE competitions imposing a minimum of 800N resistant clothing for competitors. In recent years, other ballistic fabrics have been used, but the style remains largely unchanged.

The iconic design of fencing jackets feature high necklines (called gorgets), full sleeves, and a croissard which passes between the legs. Jackets are made in both left and right handed designs, with zip placement varying so as to not interfere with the movement of the fencer, or with the registry of points. Breeches are worn to protect the lower part of the body. They resemble high waisted, tight-fitting trousers, ending just below-the knee, and are worn with elasticated suspenders. A protective glove is worn on the fencing hand. Most gloves feature protective padding on the back of the hand and fingers, and have cuffs that extend to cover the wrist. A plastron may also be worn. Covering the chest and sword arm to the elbow, plastrons are an additional protective layer worn under the jacket, secured by straps around the neck and waist. Moulded plastic chest protectors are worn by female fencers, and optionally male fencers, underneath their gear.

Ellen Thomas, Beginner’s Officer.
Ellen Thomas, Beginner’s Officer.

The term ‘whites’ is used in reference to protective gear, a straightforward allusion to the striking palette of the fencer’s wardrobe. In DUFC, the colour black is reserved for coach Dr. Colm Flynn, adhering to the traditional distinction made between fencing instructors and their pupils. While all fencers wear the gear listed above, each weapon has its own special attire that reflects the fencing style and target area.

Sabre is a ‘slashing’ weapon, in which points can be scored by touches with the tip or the side of the blade. The target area is the torso from above the waist and the mask, but excludes the hands. In sabre, full fencing whites are worn, with the addition of a sleeved lamé and manchette, or cuff. A lamé is an electrically conductive vest made of light metallic mesh, which forms part of a circuit with the metallic sabre mask and scoring box, connected by a series of lightweight wires worn underneath the fencer’s uniform. A cuff, or manchette, of the same metallic material is worn over the wrist of the sword arm. The area covered by the lamé is indicative of the scoring area. While fencing, points are registered through the connection of the opponent’s blade with the lamé.

While DUFC competes in all weapons, all members who join at beginner’s level are first acquainted with the techniques of foil fencing. The foil is a lightweight blade, and unlike sabre, only the tip of the blade is conductive. The foil lamé resembles a sleeveless vest, with the target area being restricted to the torso. Foil masks feature a metallic bib, as only the lower neck is included in the target area.

In épée, the fencer’s entire body is a target—and yes, that does include their feet. Points are scored if the fencer touches their opponent with enough force to depress the weapon’s tip, rather than by the contact with a lamé. Épéeists, therefore, are not required to wear lamés, but the additional pressure and weight of the blades involved necessitate the use of plastrons.

James Bryant, Club Captain; Ellen Thomas, Beginner’s Officer
James Bryant, Club Captain; Ellen Thomas, Beginner’s Officer

While membership to DUFC includes access to the club’s collection of fencing gear, many fencers at Squad level choose to purchase their own, allowing them to account for their personal preferences. For those competing in high-level competitions, it is customary to have one’s surname and country abbreviation (Ireland becomes IRL) printed or embroidered on the back.

No Trinity fencer’s wardrobe is complete, however, without the addition of a pair of Trinity socks. Featuring bold black and red horizontal stripes, the socks have become a trademark of the team at national competitions, with the college’s competitors easily distinguishable by their colourful leg-wear. Available at Elvery’s on Suffolk Street, the socks complete the striking visual aesthetic of DUFC, and are a particular hit at Inter-varsities, with supporters sporting their colours with pride.

James Bryant, Club Captain; Leah McHugh, Journeyman Armourer
James Bryant, Club Captain; Leah McHugh, Journeyman Armourer

DUFC are not alone in their appreciation of dazzling whites, with fencing gear regularly being sported on the catwalk, in fashion shoots, and of course, on the silver screen. In May 2009 Elle Italia featured fencing-inspired editorial ‘Dame e Cavalieri’ by photographer Ruven Afanador. Featuring sabre-wielding models lunging, stretching and planking, the shoot is reminiscent of a highly stylised training session—but with fewer burpees and a prettier backdrop. Danish photographer Rasmus Morgensen also utilises fencing in his photography, with models in white braziers and gloves gripping rapiers and fencing masks in static poses.

Most recently, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s inaugural collection as artistic director for Christian Dior in Spring 2017 heavily referenced the sport. Pairing tulle skirts with jackets inspired by body-protectors and fencing jackets, the collection also used mesh visors to emulate the protective masks worn during matches. While the collection reflects the recent trend of sportswear-on-the-runway, Chiuri linked her use of fencing to the theme of the collection, that of empowering women.


 


Pictured (l-r) Front row: Ellen, Shauna Louise, Leah; Back row: Jack, James

Ellen Thomas, Beginner’s Officer
Ellen did not supply us with a quote, but the writer feels that her effortless elegance says it all, really.
Ellen wears an Uhlmann classic range jacket, Leon Paul Spartan range breeches, Trinity socks, an Enlighten foil lamé, and a Leon Paul X-Change mask.

Leah McHugh, Journeyman Armourer
“Nothing tastes as good as fencing feels”
Leah wears 400N Leon Paul Spartan Jacket and breeches, Leon Paul glove, an Uhlmann sabre lamé, and Trinity socks.

Jack Tinsley, Armourer
“Do you think that God stays in heaven because he, too, lives in fear of what he’s created here on Earth? – Dr. S.B. Romero”
Jack sports an Uhlmann jacket, Enlighten Sabre lamé, Enlighten breeches, an Adidas adizero glove , Adidas D’Artagnan IV fencing shoes, and TCD socks.

James Bryant, Club Captain
“In testing times you don’t rise to the occasion, you sink to the level of your training”
James is wearing Uhlmann 800N Royal breeches and jacket, a Leon Paul gryptonite glove, Trinity socks, and carrying a Leon Paul FIE épée.

 

If you are interested in donning whites for yourself, you can contact dufencing@gmail.com.

 

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